As a former medical esthetician, I've written blogs about the crappy treatments that are out there, with their "clinical trials" and bullsh*t claims - devices like RF Microneedling (you can read my blog on that here), fat reduction treatments, and skin tightening that overpromise and underdeliver (read this blog here). But I have yet to talk about treatments that I really love. My top pick is an IPL or BBL. There's nothing like getting your first IPL or BBL when it's done correctly because the difference can be so dramatic. Before and after photos don't lie with this one.
What is IPL/BBL?
IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light and there are hundreds of different devices out there with this name. BBL, on the other hand, stands for Broad Band Light, and it's a trademarked name owned by one company called Sciton. Similar technology, with a few nuances.
Here's what you need to know: If you're getting a BBL treatment, rest assured your provider is using the best technology out there. The Sciton BBL has settings that cheaper machines simply don't have, better cooling systems, and more precise wavelength control. On the other hand, if you're getting an "IPL," it's buyer beware. They are not all created equal - some machines cost $10,000 and others cost $100,000. The truth is, you get what you pay for.
What It Treats
Both IPL and BBL use light energy to target pigment and blood vessels in your skin. They can:
- Remove unwanted hair (yes, really... facial hair too)
- Reduce redness and rosacea
- Fade sun damage and age spots
- Minimize broken capillaries
- Boost collagen production for smoother texture
- Even out skin tone
- Give you that "lit from within" glow
This is one of those rare treatments where before and after photos will show a difference - noticeably smoother, brighter, more even-toned skin. It's worth the investment.
What It WON'T Fix
To be realistic: IPL/BBL won't:
- Tighten sagging skin or jowls
- Fix deep wrinkles
- Replace a facelift
- Work miracles on severely sun-damaged skin in one treatment
It's an amazing treatment, but it has limits.
Who Should NOT Get This Treatment
This is also one of the most dangerous treatments for certain skin types. Do not get IPL/BBL if:
- You have a darker skin tone (risk of serious risk of burns and hypopigmentation)
- You have an active tan
- You've been in the sun recently (within 2-4 weeks)
- You're on photosensitizing medications like certain antibiotics
Like any heat-based treatment, certain precautions need to be taken. Your provider should go over questions such as: Are you on antibiotics? Have you been in the sun recently? Do you have diabetes? Be sure you answer these questions honestly - they can affect the outcome of your treatment, and lying could result in burns or permanent scarring.
What Does It Feel Like?
I'm not going to lie - it's a bit uncomfortable, but doable. Most people describe it as a rubber band snap with each pulse. Some areas (like around the nose) are more sensitive than others. The treatment itself takes 15-30 minutes depending on the area being treated.
Your provider might apply cooling gel and most machines have built-in cooling that helps. If you're really sensitive, you can ask about numbing cream beforehand.
The Treatment Plan & Timeline
IPL/BBL is typically done in a series of 2-3 treatments, spaced 3-4 weeks apart, depending on your skin goals.
Here's the realistic timeline:
- Immediately after: Red, feels like a sunburn
- Days 2-4: Sun damage spots turn dark (like coffee grounds)
- Days 5-7: Dark spots flake off
- Week 2-3: Full results visible - clearer, brighter skin
- After series: Maintenance treatments every 6-12 months
Aftercare: Don’t Miss This Step
Your provider will go over aftercare with you. This is arguably the most important part to protect your results!
Critical aftercare rules:
- Stay out of the sun completely for at least two weeks
- Wear SPF 30+ religiously
- No sweating/intense exercise for 24-48 hours
- Don't pick at the dark spots that form
- Skip harsh actives (retinol, acids) for a few days
What to expect during healing:
- Your skin will be noticeably red immediately after (should calm down within hours)
- Sometimes there's risk of bruising
- Sun-damaged areas should become quite dark and may look like coffee grounds on your skin
- Don't pick! They will shed off over 4-7 days naturally
The Honest Truth About Sun Damage
It's important to understand that not all sun damage is reversible. In fact, it never really goes away - you've just removed the top layer of it. Depending on the depth of the sun damage, it may lighten significantly, but it might never completely disappear.
I have a stubborn spot on the left side of my face that I've treated many times. It lightens for a bit, but as soon as summer comes - no matter how much SPF I wear - it darkens back up again.
Fun fact: Most people end up with more spots on the left side of their face because that's the driver's side, and they're more exposed to the sun through the car window. Check your own face - I bet you'll notice it now!
What It Costs
Expect to pay $300-450 per treatment. Yes, that adds up over a series. But compared to buying endless "miracle" serums that don't work, or dealing with the confidence hit of uneven, sun-damaged skin it’s worth it.
Bottom Line: Is It Worth It?
IPL/BBL is the one treatment I consistently recommend from my years running a clinic. When done correctly, with the right machine, by a skilled provider, on the right skin type - the results are fantastic.
You're a good candidate if:
- You have lighter skin tone
- You have sun damage, redness, or uneven tone
- You're willing to commit to sun protection
- You can afford the series and maintenance
Choose something else if:
- You have darker skin
- You can't stay out of the sun
- You're looking for skin tightening (this won't do that)
Done right, this treatment delivers results. And in an industry full of overhyped modalities, that's saying something.
My Secret Weapon for Faster Recovery
When I was running my clinic, I'd send clients home with a small bottle of hypochlorous acid spray. Here's why: after treatment, your skin is essentially in a healing state - and can be hot and inflamed.
Hypochlorous acid is what your own immune system produces to fight inflammation and support healing. When applied topically after IPL/BBL, it:
- Cools down that post-treatment heat (feels amazing on hot, irritated skin)
- Reduces redness faster
- Supports your skin's natural healing process
- Keeps the treated area clean without irritation
My clients loved it because it was the only thing that felt good on their sensitive, treated skin. No stinging, no irritation - just cooling relief.
Pro tip: If your provider doesn't offer this, you can pick up a pH-balanced hypochlorous acid spray like Biome Aid’s Purifying Hypochlorous Mist. Apply it whenever your face feels hot or irritated during the healing process.